Permanent Makeup, or PMU, is a cosmetic technique that uses tattooing to enhance facial features. PMU involves using pigment or ink implanted into the skin, creating a permanent or semi-permanent effect. However, to achieve the best results, PMU artists must consider the skin tone of their clients. This is where the Fitzpatrick scale comes in.

What Is The Fitzpatrick Scale?

The Fitzpatrick scale is a numerical sorting system for categorising human skin tones. The scale was developed by a dermatologist named Thomas B. Fitzpatrick in 1975. Fitzpatrick created the scale to classify the skin’s response to UV radiation. The scale is based on two factors: the skin’s reaction to sunlight and the skin’s natural color.

The Fitzpatrick scale comprises six skin types, each with unique characteristics. Skin type 1 is the lightest, while skin type 6 is the darkest. The Fitzpatrick scale is widely used in the cosmetic industry, including PMU.

How Is The Fitzpatrick Scale Used In PMU?

PMU artists use the Fitzpatrick scale to determine the appropriate pigment color for their clients. Pigments that are too light or too dark can appear unnatural. Therefore, PMU artists must choose the right pigment color that matches their client’s skin tone.

The Fitzpatrick scale is also used to determine the needle depth used during the PMU procedure. Darker skin tones require deeper needle penetration, while lighter skin tones require shallower needle penetration. This is because darker skin has more melanin, which can cause the pigment to appear darker. On the other hand, lighter skin has less melanin, which can cause the pigment to appear lighter.

Understanding The Fitzpatrick Scale

To effectively use the Fitzpatrick scale, PMU artists must understand the characteristics of each skin type. The following is a breakdown of each skin type and its unique characteristics:

Skin Type 1: People with type 1 have very fair skin that scorches easily and does not tan. They often have red or blonde hair and blue or green eyes.

Skin Type 2: People with type 2 have fair skin that burns easily but can tan slightly. They often have blonde or light brown hair and blue or green eyes.

Skin Type 3: People with type 3 have fair to medium skin that can tan but burns easily. They often have brown hair and green or brown eyes.

Skin Type 4: People with skin type 4 have medium to dark skin that rarely burns and tans easily. They often have dark brown eyes and black or dark brown hair.

Skin Type 5: People with type 5 have dark skin that rarely scorches and tans easily. They often have dark brown eyes and black hair.

Skin Type 6: People with skin type 6 have very dark skin that never burns and tans easily. They often have black hair and dark brown eyes.

Choosing The Right Pigment Color

PMU artists must consider the client’s skin tone and undertones to choose the right pigment color. Undertones are the subtle hues that exist beneath the skin’s surface. Undertones can be cool, warm, or neutral.

Cool undertones have a bluish, pink, or red hue. Warm undertones have a yellow, peachy, or golden hue. Neutral undertones have a balance of cool and warm undertones.

PMU artists must choose a pigment color that matches the client’s skin tone and undertones. If the pigment color is too light or too dark, it can result in an unnatural appearance.

Choosing The Right Needle Depth

PMU artists must also consider the client’s skin tone when choosing the appropriate needle depth. Darker skin tones require deeper needle penetration, while lighter skin tones require shallower needle penetration.

If the needle depth is too shallow on darker skin tones, the pigment may not be deposited deep enough, resulting in a lighter color and potential fading. If the needle is too deep on lighter skin tones, the pigment may be deposited too deep, resulting in a darker color and potential scarring.

PMU artists must also consider the area of the face they are working on when choosing the appropriate needle depth. For example, the needle depth used on the eyebrows may differ from the depth used on the lips.

Conclusion

The Fitzpatrick scale plays a crucial role in Permanent Makeup. As a numerical classification system that categorizes human skin tones, the Fitzpatrick scale enables PMU artists to choose the appropriate pigment color and needle depth for their clients. Priyanka Saini, the master trainer in permanent makeup at Foxy Permanent Makeup, is an expert in using the Fitzpatrick scale to achieve natural-looking and long-lasting results for her clients. Her experience and professional judgment allow her to tailor her approach to each client, ensuring they receive the best possible outcome. With the use of the Fitzpatrick scale and skilled artists like Priyanka Saini, PMU has become a reliable and effective cosmetic technique.

 

Written By
Priyanka Saini

Priyanka Saini, a permanent makeup master, started her career in the beauty field in 2020. Originally, Priyanka worked as a dietician and founded the FitaspirebyPriyana brand.